Chloé
For quite a while now I find myself to be a big fan of Chloe. The relaxed approach and sensual take on their resort collections, seems to always perfectly capture what the holiday season should be all about. There was quite a bit of variety within this line; from bold print, over-sized outerwear to the plentiful of texture. My personal favorites were two tone dresses which combined drape and straight cut, and featured above the camel sleeveless dress with a laced detail at the front (simple yet very clever solutions to enhance the silhouette). Overall feel of the collection appears to be heavier then the last season; with less focus on the romance and more on the urban chick. The colors are more defined, print is way bolder and apart from few evening pieces, fabrics selection seems to be more substantial (with some jumpers and outerwear included). Still this years resort selection well represents what Chloe is all about; comfort and femininity at its best.
Mary Katrantzou
Couple of days before the beginning of this years A/W Fashion Week, I have discussed Mary Katrantzou's label with a good friend of mine. She generally was not a fan, I initially was but have admitted that for the last few seasons Katrantzou's brand seemed to be loosing it's cool.
I remember first hearing about Mary when she made a headlines with her graduate collection: the digitally printed jewelry on the simple line dresses, I have found myself to be in an awe of the simplicity and absolute genius of this concept. That was a great starting point and throughout the years it went only larger, bolder and crazier. Richness of color and intricate real life like print became the Katrantzou's signature style. We could admire the dresses featuring, the interiors, postal stamps, tea spoons, trees, flowers, landscapes, old china and many, many more.
However the question arises where do you stop? When too much much is just simply not good enough any more? For the last few seasons I have got the feeling that creative mind of Katrantzou seemed to be slowly spinning out of control and even more so, running out of ideas (abstract smudges and flower fields for example). For me the breaking point was S/S 2013 show, when models paraded on the catwalk wearing clothing featuring printed shoes. Yes, shoes! By that I mean, soles, laces, eyelets even top stitching. As much as it can seem like a good idea, for me personally it was not: there is something seriously contradictory between tight fitting mini dress and brown gentleman-style loafers. Not to mention lack of balance and harmony within the collection.
I have to say that this was my least favorite of Katrantzou's collections, and it looks like I was not singled out in my opinion, because the S/S 2013 has proven to be a turning point for the label.
This year's resort collection continues to explore the new approach to the Katrantzou's signature style. The line up consisted mainly of tailored and figure hugging pieces, like high waisted skirts, slim fit trousers and cropped jackets. This time the designer has chosen the simple cut and used it as a canvas for the intricate print and rich texture. The theme of the season was calligraphy, which came in the form of embellishment and throughout the show has grown bolder and more defined. Pastels were dominant, stronger hues came in the form of print but also has overtaken some of the pieces. My favorite elements of the Resort were sheerness and rich embroidery. The needle work was used to create the calligraphy but also the entire landscapes which have decorated some of the dresses. Collection was opulent and had an 'eye candy' quality to it, very much in line with what Katrantzou's house is all about. The highlight of this season was the baby pink, dress with a letter 'K', constructed by the combination of an embellishment and the difference in sleeve's color. It was fun, simple and clever and most of all it incorporated all these key points into a strong branding statement. The Resort 2014 has shown the house of Katrantzou as a creative hub with deep understanding of it's own values but also willingness to explore and learn. The key trademarks of the great designers out there.
Fendi
Even though I consider Fendi as one of those brands, which has its better and worse moments, I can never deny it's creativity. This year's resort delivers on many levels, especially on the aesthetic and commercial one.
A-line seemed to be a key silhouette of this season and it came in many forms; form below the knee coats, dresses , skirts to the medium cuff length trousers. Patchwork leather jackets and fur coat were the true highlights. On the black and white pieces, Graffiti like calligraphy spelled 'Fendi', and in some places it appeared to be sticking out of the fabric. Print was crucial element of this collection. It has featured the range of handwriting; from bold abstracts throughout the 3D polka dots effect to finally hand painted orchids. It was strategically placed on the monochrome surface and it was incorporated into the balance of the entire silhouette. Another look worth mentioning were dresses; some entirely, some partially pleated, this fabric manipulation has highlighted the movement and created the feeling of preppie like aesthetic.
Mary Katrantzou
Couple of days before the beginning of this years A/W Fashion Week, I have discussed Mary Katrantzou's label with a good friend of mine. She generally was not a fan, I initially was but have admitted that for the last few seasons Katrantzou's brand seemed to be loosing it's cool.
I remember first hearing about Mary when she made a headlines with her graduate collection: the digitally printed jewelry on the simple line dresses, I have found myself to be in an awe of the simplicity and absolute genius of this concept. That was a great starting point and throughout the years it went only larger, bolder and crazier. Richness of color and intricate real life like print became the Katrantzou's signature style. We could admire the dresses featuring, the interiors, postal stamps, tea spoons, trees, flowers, landscapes, old china and many, many more.
However the question arises where do you stop? When too much much is just simply not good enough any more? For the last few seasons I have got the feeling that creative mind of Katrantzou seemed to be slowly spinning out of control and even more so, running out of ideas (abstract smudges and flower fields for example). For me the breaking point was S/S 2013 show, when models paraded on the catwalk wearing clothing featuring printed shoes. Yes, shoes! By that I mean, soles, laces, eyelets even top stitching. As much as it can seem like a good idea, for me personally it was not: there is something seriously contradictory between tight fitting mini dress and brown gentleman-style loafers. Not to mention lack of balance and harmony within the collection.
I have to say that this was my least favorite of Katrantzou's collections, and it looks like I was not singled out in my opinion, because the S/S 2013 has proven to be a turning point for the label.
This year's resort collection continues to explore the new approach to the Katrantzou's signature style. The line up consisted mainly of tailored and figure hugging pieces, like high waisted skirts, slim fit trousers and cropped jackets. This time the designer has chosen the simple cut and used it as a canvas for the intricate print and rich texture. The theme of the season was calligraphy, which came in the form of embellishment and throughout the show has grown bolder and more defined. Pastels were dominant, stronger hues came in the form of print but also has overtaken some of the pieces. My favorite elements of the Resort were sheerness and rich embroidery. The needle work was used to create the calligraphy but also the entire landscapes which have decorated some of the dresses. Collection was opulent and had an 'eye candy' quality to it, very much in line with what Katrantzou's house is all about. The highlight of this season was the baby pink, dress with a letter 'K', constructed by the combination of an embellishment and the difference in sleeve's color. It was fun, simple and clever and most of all it incorporated all these key points into a strong branding statement. The Resort 2014 has shown the house of Katrantzou as a creative hub with deep understanding of it's own values but also willingness to explore and learn. The key trademarks of the great designers out there.
Fendi
Even though I consider Fendi as one of those brands, which has its better and worse moments, I can never deny it's creativity. This year's resort delivers on many levels, especially on the aesthetic and commercial one.
A-line seemed to be a key silhouette of this season and it came in many forms; form below the knee coats, dresses , skirts to the medium cuff length trousers. Patchwork leather jackets and fur coat were the true highlights. On the black and white pieces, Graffiti like calligraphy spelled 'Fendi', and in some places it appeared to be sticking out of the fabric. Print was crucial element of this collection. It has featured the range of handwriting; from bold abstracts throughout the 3D polka dots effect to finally hand painted orchids. It was strategically placed on the monochrome surface and it was incorporated into the balance of the entire silhouette. Another look worth mentioning were dresses; some entirely, some partially pleated, this fabric manipulation has highlighted the movement and created the feeling of preppie like aesthetic.
